Incognito

Nico Ladenis' unfussy West End restaurant provides the best-value set menu in London. For under £20, at lunchtime or early evening, diners can enjoy a well-composed three-course meal, with a choice of two dishes per course, from a menu that changes weekly. Dishes might include a brandade of salt cod in crispy pastry, followed by pork belly with fresh sauerkraut and Madeira sauce, and Key lime tart. A decent, mainly French, a la carte menu is also available, including many fish dishes but few entirely vegetarian ones.

The interior is cosy and uncluttered but the service can be patchy. A decent wine list has a helpful (or pretentious) adjective describing each wine.

Closed Sunday. Dress code smart / casual