Theo Randall at the InterContinental

This new London restaurant has everything going for it - a lovely, spacious room with elegant, chic decor; clever seating that creates a social setting, while also allowing guests privacy; friendly, helpful and knowledgeable staff; and a man at the helm who has been Head Chef at the River Cafe for more than a decade.

However, is it any good? The short answer: absolutely! The long answer: Theo Randall specialises in modern, Italian gourmet cuisine, and the food, along with the service, the wine selection and the sommelier's advice, is rarely less than excellent. Some of the dishes, like the pan-fried squid with borlotti beans, or the Scottish scallops with lentils, are superb.

The roasted monkfish is also gorgeous, while the agnolotti, fresh pasta stuffed with veal, partridge, pancetta and parmesan, are a bit more subdued flavour-wise.

The desserts are good too, and the Meyer lemon tart is simply sublime. What really makes this place special, however, is that it is the result not only of attention to detail, but also of a strong sense of balance and proportion.

The food, the wine, the menu, the decor - all the elements seem to have been carefully judged in relation to each other. In short, a certain classicism, albeit a modern one, seems to pervade. It may indeed be the very element that can make Theo Randall a classic on the London restaurant scene.